Quality ... the degree of excellence
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BMW Power Steering FAQ's
Power Steering Pump Illustration
Frequently Asked Questions
There is red or clear fluid under my car. Where is it coming
from?
Well, don't be afraid to touch it (just remember to wash your hands
well later) or crawl under the car to see where it is coming from (a piece
of cardboard helps keep the pants clean in such scenarios). If you
decide to pop open the hood make sure the engine is off (you'd be surprised
how often we forget safety issues). Motor oil, automatic transmission
fluid (ATF), and brake fluid are all a little bit different. If the
color is brownish to clear and you find yourself adding oil when the dip
stick is low then it most likely is an engine oil leak. If the color
is clear, the fluid seems thinner than (the viscosity) motor oil, and the
fluid washes away easily with water or evaporates after a few days then
it could be brake fluid, so check your brake reservoir. If the color
is red to dark red and it feels almost like engine oil then it could be
ATF (automatic transmission fluid). ATF is used in cars with
automatic transmissions and ATF is also used for the power steering.
So if you have an automatic trans. check the dip stick. If you are
under the car check by the transmission for tranny leaks. Power
steering leaks are more common from the rack. As the rack seals or
other rack components fail the fluid bypasses the shaft seal and ends up
in the rack boot or bellows. If you feel ambitious you can safely
get the car up and pull back a rack boot. If there is fluid in there
then you need a remanufactured rack. While you are investigating
the rack you should inspect the hydraulic fittings attached to the rack
(where the hose lines connect), check the hose lines and the power steering
reservoir. The last culprit in the power steering system to check
is the pump. Pump leaks are more common behind the pulley (a shaft
seal) or between the pumps case halves. If you cannot locate the
leak simply park your car over a large piece of cardboard in the evening
and check it the next morning. The location of the drops on the cardboard
with respect to the drip should give you an indication as to where to look.
The power steering pump is making an awful groan or grinding noise.
What's the problem?
This could be caused by two problems. First, the pump could
be low on fluid so its "cavitating" - when bubbles form in the fluid low
pressure area and collapse in a higher pressure area of the pump, causing
noise, damage and a loss of capacity. Cavitating is not good.
If you continue to run the pump with this problem if will wear out very
very quickly. Second, your pump is already worn out.
A worn pump will not fix itself. Time to place the pump and check
for any leaks in the system (such as the rack).
I saw this stuff in the auto parts store that "revitalizes and
restores the seals". Will it work?
Doubtful. Very doubtful. If it worked you would have to
assume that there would be no need for remanufactured
racks, pumps or new hoses. Remember, the high pressure rack or
pump seals are designed to withstand high pressure, which can be up to
75 or 110 bar (1087 to 1595 psi). When a seal breaks or wears
down we know of no "wonder fluid" that can mend or repair it. The
same goes for rack shaft or pinion surfaces which are made of steel, we
know of no fluid in a can that can remove the pits, re weld new steel and
grind it back to its original size and finish. And, some of these
"wonder fluids" may do more harm than good by swelling or changing the
durometer (hardness) of rubber components in the system. We will
say we have seen a fluid you dump in your radiator that will "temporarily"
slow down or stop a low pressure leak (until you can sell the car).
What kind of fluid should I use for my power steering system?
We could probably list all the types you could use but the smartest
thing to do is look in your car owners manual. If you don't have
one then look at the power steering reservoir or it's cap. If that
fails try your local dealer's parts or service department. Some BMW's
may "require" you use their proprietary fluid. In most cases you
can use ATF "Dexron" Type II, III or later versions. If you choose Dexron you do
not need synthetic and any brand will do just fine.
My car seems to have lost its power steering. Wha is wrong with it?
It could be the pump or it could be the power steering rack or box.
If the you have lost power assist when turning in both directions:
First check to see if you have fluid in the power steering tank. If not then
you probably have a leak as the system is not suppose to lose fluid.
If the fluid level is good then check the belt tension to be sure the belt
is not slipping. If the belt tension is good, the pump is not making
noise and you have not lost any fluid then its time to have the car
inspected by a professional to determine the exact cause.
If you have loss of power assist in one direction then in most
cases it is the rack or box.
If the loss of power assist is minor then check simple things
like: tire wear or tire pressure before seeing the professional.
What is a power ASSISTED steering?
You can have either a "power assisted" rack or box, or "manual" rack
or box. A power assisted unit is powered by a power steering pump.
The pump sends pressure to the racks spool valve, the valve is incorporated
with the pinion gear or input shaft to the rack. When you turn your
steering wheel a shaft connected to it applies torque to the input shaft.
As the amount of torque increases the valve gradually opens and allows
the pressurized fluid to travel and push against a fixed piston on the
racks shaft. The rack shaft is enclosed by a cylinder so the
pressure builds up against the piston and pushes the rack shaft (either
right or left). Since the amount of pressure from the pump is constant
the degree or amount of power assist you feel is related to the amount
of torque you apply to the steering wheel (the more torque the great the
valve opens... to a point). Power assist is usually required and
noticed when making slow turns. The faster the car moves the less
amount of torque or power assist you need to turn the car.
Why am I seeing a wide range of prices for rebuilt pumps?
Pricing is relative to what you are buying! Some rebuilders really to a good job, from "tip to tail" as they. With remanufactured or rebuilt products
there is a great range of price. Think of it this way, if you were to buy a "new part in the box" which is made by only one company, all you would have to do is shop around for the best price because no matter where you buy it you will always get the same part and same quality. However with rebuilt products it all depends upon who rebuilt or remanufactured it, how much labor and materials they invested, and how much pride they have in the work they do. It is true "you get what you pay for", so ask questions of your supplier. My favorite analogy comes from a good friend who said "There are two ways to buys oats. Before the horse eats them or after the horse eats um."
What is the DIFFERENCE between: "refurbished, reconditioned,
repaired, rebuilt, overhauled and remanufactured"
They are all different and that is where the difference in price is.
Every company uses it's own terminology so it's best to ask "what does
your processing entail, or what am I getting for my money":
Refurbished: could mean someone found a used part in a junk
yard, quickly looked over the outside, clean it up a bit and put it in
a box.
Reconditioned: could mean someone found a used part in a junk
yard, quickly looked over the outside, clean it up a bit, spray painted
it and put it in a box.
Repaired: fixed only what was obviously wrong.
Rebuilt: fixed what was obviously wrong and maybe what could
go wrong later.
Overhauled: same as remanufactured but may or may not be near
OEM standards.
Remanufactured: a complete disassembly of the product, a thorough
cleaning and complete inspection & repair or replacement of damaged
or critical components, proper reassembly (torque & technique) of the
product, a pre test inspection, complete hydraulic test, final inspection
and proper packaging for storage and shipment..... quality is the degree
of excellence.
What is a CORE and why do I have to pay a deposit?
Most remanufactured products are sold on an "exchange" basis, meaning
you are exchanging your rack or pump for a remanufactured one. A
"core" refers to your old rack or pump. A core deposit is a deposit
you pay until such time that you return a good core to us (in essence you
are buying a remanufactured product and its core). The core deposit
is refundable when you return your old rack or pump, however your core
is subject to the suppliers acceptance criteria. For instance: a
damaged core cannot be economically remanufactured therefore it has no
value. Damage cores are not refundable. Damage cores are typically
cores that have been in an accident or fire, they are bent, broken, have
been disassembled or are missing parts. In most instances you will
not have a problem getting your core deposit back if you: (i) know
your rack or pump is not "damaged" and (ii) you are on the level with the
supplier. Most core returns as most replacements are
for leaks or normal wear. Ask your supplier if there is a core return required.
If so what are their terms and conditions for their core policy. Ask if there is a core
deposit required. And, if so, what the terms and conditions of their deposit
policy.
Core returns must be of the same make and model, for example: if you
are purchasing an E30 post 11/86 rack you should be returning the same
model, or if you are purchasing an M3 rack you must return a M3 core.
The "quality" of the core is important to you and the remanufacturer.
A high quality remanufactured product starts off as a good core.
If you return a core that is damaged and the remanufacturer accepts it,
you have to wonder about the quality of the product they are selling you
;>)
Why can't I just buy "seals" and fix it myself ?
If you like to "tinker", know how to "tinker", got the time to tinker and you have all the right "tinkering" tools and equipment, well then maybe you can attempt to rebuild one pump successfully. However it is not that simple if you want to do the job right and do it only once. Let the experienced people handle the "remanufacturing" while you enjoy driving your car.
How hard is it to replace the pump?
It is done often by car owners and it could take anywhere from
1 hour to 5 hours depending upon the location of your pump.
Most pumps are belt drive rather than direct drive, so the pump
needs a belt driven by the engine crank shaft pulley; your pump
will be located in the front of the car if your engine is not mounted sideways.
It is a lot easier than replacing your kitchen cabinets but a bit more
time consuming than the changing a tire. We would say somewhat close to
time and effort to do your alternator. Get your common
tools (open end wrenches and socket set), a small basin or old can to catch any
oil, some rags and some new power steering fluid. Locate the pump.
Determine how the pumps belt tension works, it might be a bracket on the pump,
or another component that shares the same belt. Loosen the belt tension.
Move the belt off the pump pulley. Locate the inlet hose and outlet hose
fittings on the pump and remove them (catch the oil). If you car has more
than two hose connections to it and they are of the same size then note
how and where they are attached. Locate the pumps mounting bolts
and remove them. Take the pump out and place it on a rag with ports
pointing up to prevent fluid loss. Throw on your new pump.
Tighten the belt tension (if you don't have a spec. or special tool to check
the belt tension then use the rule of "the belt should be able to twist
90 degrees in one direction when it is tight". Fill up the power steering
tank with new fluid. Double check everything is tight, you did not leave
off any parts and any other components you may have loosened or removed
are back in place. Start up the car and check to see if you have fluid moving
in the power steering tank. Check your hose fittings for leaks.
Turn the steering wheel several times fully left
and fully right to help purge out air in the system. Shut off the engine
and top off the power steering tank to the OEM suggested level.
Take the car for a short spin. Shut off the engine again and repeat the fluid
level check.
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page revised 12/23/07