Quality ... the degree of excellence
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Porsche
Steering Rack & Pinion
Griffiths remanufactures various Factory OEM Quality Porsche steering rack types. Here is a listing of our current stock models:
Porsche 928 steering rack, years 1978-1981, pn's: 928 347 010 BX, 928347010BX, 928-347-010-BX, 928 347 010 22, 92834701022,928-347-010-22, 928 347 010 22
Porsche 928 steering rack, years 1982-1990, pn's: 928 347 010 CX, 928347010CX, 928-347-010-CX, 928 347 010 24, 928-347-010-24, 92834701024
Porsche 928 steering rack, years 1991-1995, pn's: 928 347 010 DX, 928347010DX, 928-347-010-DX, 928 347 010 26, 928-347-010-26, 92834701026
Porsche C2 steering rack, years 1990-1991, pn's: 964 347 009 BX, 964347009BX, 964-347-009-BX, 964 347 009 02, 96434700902, 964-347-009-02
Porsche C2 steering rack, years 1992-1994, pn's: 964 347 009 DX, 964347009DX, 964-347-009-DX, 964 347 009 04, 96434700904, 964-347-009-04
Porsche C4 steering rack, years 1989-1994, pn's: 964 347 009 BX, 964347009BX, 964-347-009-BX, 964 347 009 02, 96434700902, 964-347-009-02
Porsche 993 steering rack, years 1995-1998, pn's: 993 347 011 X, 993347011X, 993-347-011-X, 993 347 011 00, 99334701100, 993-347-011-00
Our factory OEM quality processing includes inspections for case housing, shaft and gear damage, crack inspection,
replacement of seals, o-rings, bearings and bushings, spool valve repair and replacement, proprietary shaft finishing for extended seal life. Cadmium or yellow zinc plated steel hardware components protect your investment against harsh environments. All steering rack units are 100% hydraulically tested for: power assist functions, pressure, internal & external leakage and noise.
Power Steering Pumps
Griffiths remanufactures various Factory OEM Quality Porsche power steering pumps, including LUK, Vickers and ZF brand balanced vane pumps.
Here is a listing of our current stock models:
Porsche 928 power steering pump, years 1985-1995, pn's: (these are NEW, not remanufactured) 928 347 089 X, 928347089X, 928-347-089-X,
928 347 089 00, 92834708900, 928-347-089-00, 928 347 089 AX, 928347089AX, 928-347-089-AX, 928 347 089 01, 92834708901, 928-347-089-01,
Porsche 924S power steering pump, Porsche 944 power steering pump, Porsche 951 power steering pump, Porsche 968 power steering pump,
all years, pn's: 94434743200, 944-347-432-00, 944 347 432 00, 94434743203, 944-347-432-03, 944 347 432 03, 94434743204,
944-347-432-04, 944 347 432 04, 94434743208, 944-347-432-08, 944 347 432 08, 944347432X, 944-347-432-X, 944 347 432 X, 944347432CX,
944-347-432-CX, 944 347 432 CX, 944347432DX, 944-347-432-DX, 944 347 432 DX
Porsche 964 power steering pump, Porsche C2 power steering pump, Porsche C4 power steering pump, all years, pn's:
96434743201, 964-347-432-01, 964 347 432 01, 964347432AX, 964-347-432-AX, 964 347 432 AX, 96434743202, 964-347-432-02, 964 347 432 02, 964347432BX, 964-347-432-BX, 964 347 432 BX
Porsche 993 power steering pump, all years, pn's: 993314050BX, 993 314 050 BX, 993-314-050-BX, 993314050027, 993 314 050 027, 993-314-050-027
Our OEM quality processing includes inspections for case, shaft, bearing and mounting hub damage, crack inspections, repair
or replacement of cam rings, vanes, rotor, pressure relief valve. All unit vanes, rotors, cam and case halves are precision
lapped to insure perfect sealing. All pumps are are 100% tested for pressure (peak and relief), internal & external
leakage and noise.
928 TIP: if your 928 seems hard to steer in parking or slow turn situations you may
want to try out new "HO" (high output) 928 Power Steering Pumps. Our HO pumps offer
25% boost in pressure output which helps reduce the torque strain on your wrists.
FAQ's - Frequent Questions
Maintenance
The power steering fluid level should be checked on a regular basis.
The fluid should be flushed and changed every 3 to 4 years or if you notice
a change in fluid's color or smell, or signs of contaminant (dirt, metal
particles or water). The rubber rack boots or "bellows" should be inspected
annually and replaced if damaged or gummy. Some vehicle models incorporate
a filter in the bottom of the reservoir tank, many of which cannot be properly
cleaned or serviced. Replace the reservoir tank when ever you are doing
a major service on the system, such as during rack, pump or fluid changes.
Fluids
For the 924s, 928, 944, 968 use a quality brand name Dexron type II or III (you do not need synthetic types, there is no advantage
using systhetics).
For the C2, C4 and 993 you can use Dexron up to March of 1996. From March 1996 onward
Porsche started using Pentosin CHF 11 S (green).
What is a power a power assisted rack?
You can have either a "power assisted" rack or box, or "manual" rack
or box. A power assisted unit is powered by a power steering pump. The pump sends pressure to the racks spool valve, the valve is incorporated with the pinion gear or input shaft to the rack. When you turn your steering wheel a shaft connected to it applies torque to the input shaft. As the amount of torque increases the valve gradually opens and allows the pressurized fluid to travel and push against a fixed piston on the racks shaft. The rack shaft is enclosed by a cylinder so the pressure builds up against the piston and pushes the rack shaft (either right or left). Since the amount of pressure from the pump is constant (ranging from 75 to 110 bars or 1000 to 1600 psi) of pressure, the degree or amount of power assist you feel is related to the amount
of torque you apply to the steering wheel (the more torque the great the valve opens... to a point). Power assist is usually required and noticed when making slow turns. The faster the car moves the less amount of torque or power assist you need to turn the car. 356's use a manual steering box. 914, 924(non "s") and 912's use a manual steering rack. 911, 911t and 930's use manual steering racks (through 1989). 924s uses a power steering rack. 928's use power steering racks. 944 used a manual steering rack for 1983. 944, 951, 968 use power steering racks. C2, C4, 993, 996 and the Boxster use power steering racks.
My car is handling funny. Is it the rack?
Maybe not. It is very difficult to inspect, analyze or guess
what the exact problem is over the phone or through email. The smartest
thing to do is to bring your car to a Porsche professional who is familiar with
that particular suspension. Most front end specialists can find common
problems, and it's worth your time and small investment to get an expert
opinion and "quote" (why worry and postulate the unknown).
What you can do is ask yourself some questions: (a) how many miles are
on the car, (b) when is the last time I had a front end alignment, (c)
do the ball joints, inner and outer tie rods or shocks have over 100,000
miles on them, or (d) don't laugh, how's the tire pressure.
There is red or clear fluid under my car. Where is it coming from?
Well don't be afraid to touch it (just remember to wash your hands
well later) or crawl under the car to see where it is coming from (a piece
of cardboard helps keep the pants clean in such scenarios). If you
decide to pop open the hood make sure the engine is off (you'd be surprised
how often we forget safety issues). Motor oil, automatic transmission
fluid (ATF), and brake fluid are all a little bit different. If the
color is brownish to clear and you find yourself adding oil when the dip
stick is low then it most likely is an engine oil leak. If the color
is clear, the fluid seems thinner than (the viscosity) motor oil, and the
fluid washes away easily with water or evaporates after a few days then
it could be brake fluid, so check your brake reservoir. If the color
is red to dark red and it feels almost like engine oil then it could be
ATF (automatic transmission fluid). ATF is used in cars with
automatic transmissions and ATF is also used for the power steering.
So if you have an automatic trans. check the dip stick. If you are
under the car check by the transmission for tranny leaks. Power
steering leaks are more common from the rack. As the rack seals or
other rack components fail the fluid bypasses the shaft seal and ends up
in the rack boot or bellows. If you feel ambitious you can safely
get the car up and pull back a rack boot. If there is fluid in there
then you need a remanufactured rack. While you are investigating
the rack you should inspect the hydraulic fittings attached to the rack
(where the hose lines connect), check the hose lines and the power steering
reservoir. The last culprit in the power steering system to check
is the pump Pump leaks are more common behind the pulley (a shaft
seal) or between the pumps case halves. If you cannot locate the
leak simply park your car over a large piece of cardboard in the evening
and check it the next morning. The location of the drops on the cardboard
with respect to the drip should give you an indication as to where to look.
My power steering rack's boots are full fluid. Can't I just replace the boot?
Sorry.... No. It won't work. The fluid leaked into the boot
because the shaft seal or lower pinion seal failed. The boot is only
designed to keep dust, dirt and water out of the rack. The pressure
in the steering system can reach up to 110 bar ( one bar equals about 14.5
psi) or 1595 psi. Since the atmosphere around you and the rack is
only about 14.7 psi and the pressure coming out of the rack is so much
greater, replacing the boot will not solve the problem. It's only
a matter of time before the fluid fills up the boot all the way and leaks
out of the boot. The solution is to replace the rack and you might
as well put on a fresh set of boots while you are at it.
I saw this stuff in the auto parts store that "revitalizes and
restores the seals". Will it work?
Doubtful. Very doubtful. If it worked you would have to
assume that there would be no need for remanufactured
racks, pumps or new hoses. Remember, the high pressure rack or
pump seals are designed to withstand high pressure, which can be up to
75 or 110 bar (1087 to 1595 psi). When a seal breaks or wears
down we know of no "wonder fluid" that can mend or repair it. The
same goes for rack shaft or pinion surfaces which are made of steel, we
know of no fluid in a can that can remove the pits, re weld new steel and
grind it back to its original size and finish. And, some of these
"wonder fluids" may do more harm than good by swelling or changing the
durometer (hardness) of rubber components in the system. We will
say we have seen a fluid you dump in your radiator that will "temporarily"
slow down or stop a low pressure leak (until you can sell the car).
The power steering pump is making an awful groan or grinding noise.
What's the problem?
This could be caused by two problems. First, the pump could
be low on fluid so its "cavitating" - when bubbles form in the fluid low
pressure area and collapse in a higher pressure area of the pump, causing
noise, damage and a loss of capacity. Cavitating is not good.
If you continue to run the pump with this problem if will wear out very
very quickly. Second, your pump is already worn out. A worn pump will not fix itself.
Time to place the pump and check for any leaks in the system (such as the rack).
How hard is it to replace the rack?
Depends upon what your time is worth! It is done often by car owners and takes about a half a day. It is a lot easier than replacing your kitchen cabinets but a bit more time consuming than the alternator. We would say somewhat close to
time and effort to do your shocks. Here is the common scenario: You
need to get the car in the air safely, this means either on good
jack stands (don't try rely on the car's jack) or on a lift. You disconnect
the hydraulic lines (banjo bolts) at the rack. Remove the bolt in the universal
collar attaching the steering shaft to the rack's pinion (input shaft).
Disconnect the tie rods either at the spindle or between the inner and
outers. Loosen the rack from the cross member (depending upon the model).
Pull the rack out of the car. Remove the rack boots (just
cut the old ones off because you are going to use new ones later).
Turn the racks pinion so the rack shaft's end with the gear is all the
way out of the housing. Bend back the inner tie locking tab (if equipped).
Place the rack (gear section) in a bench vise that has soft jaws
(brass or aluminum to prevent the rack shaft from damage).
NOTE: we are securing the rack shaft because we do not want it to twist against
the pinion and damage the inner bearings or gear set. Counter
clockwise turn the inner tie rods to remove them (never turn or hold the rack
shaft or gear with a wrench or tool that will damage or scratch it).
Slip the new boots over the tie rods. Attach steering stops if equipped
Tighten the inner tie rod clockwise. Bend over the locking tab if equipped.
Smear some common brown wheel bearing grease on the shaft. Slip the
new boots over the inner tie rod and secure them to the rack. Put
the rack back in the car. Reattach the hydraulic lines (what is called
the banjo fitting) to the rack using new copper crush washers (all Griffiths
racks come with new copper crush washers. Tighten everything up and check your work twice
You can "eyeball" the toe alignment until you get an alignment (schedule the alignment before you
start the job). Refill the power steering reservoir. Start
the car (make sure you have it safety in mind here) and turn the steering
wheel slowing right and left, lock to lock, several times to bleed the
air out of the rack. Recheck the power steering reservoir level.
Drive down to the alignment shop. Steering wheel alignment can be typically corrected
by removing the steering wheel and re-positioning it on the steering column shaft
with the car in a straight running position. Certain Porsche steering racks have
a small indent viewable at the driver's side of the rack by removing a small inspection
hole plug. In theory the rack will be in its "centered" position when the indent
is visible.
I just replace my outer TIE RODS, why should I buy new ones?
If your car has over 80,000 miles on the odometer and you are replacing
your rack it makes economic sense to replace the entire tie rod "assembly"
(inner and outer rods). Inner tie rod wear can be hard to check on a 928.
Since you have to remove the inner joints from the rack shaft when you replace the rack ... for the small difference
in material cost you might as well replace the entire assembly and the
boots as well. Imagine if you went through the process of :(a)
removing the old rack, (b) putting your old tie rod assemblies and boots
on the remanufactured rack, (c) re-installed the rack in your car,
(d) did an alignment ....... and the following year your car is wondering
all over the road because your old tie rods were near their life limit.
It's smarter to do the job right and only once (get the long rack).
What is the difference between a "short" and a "long" rack?
A short rack is simply the rack and pinion assembly without inner or
outer tie rods attached. A long rack has two interpretations in the
industry: it could be a short rack with inner tie rods and boots attached,
or it could include both the inner; outer tie rods and boots.
The inner tie rods attach to the rack. The outer tie rods are connected
to the inners by a thread rod or adjustment tube, with the outer connecting
to the spindle. The rule of thumb is: if your car has over 80,000 miles on it, you
have no known history of the tie rods being replaced, and you are in need
of replacing the rack, then you are smart to get a long rack. Why?
Well it is a matter of economics. When you replace the "short" rack you
have remove the inner tie rods from the old rack and attach them to the
new, and in some cases you have remove the outer tie rods from the spindles.
So if you are going through all this work it makes sense to do the job
"right and once". Imagine if you only replaced the rack and
not the tie rod assemblies, and 10k or 20k miles later you need to replace
one or two. You'd have to find the time to do the work or make an
appointment, pay or do more than half of the work that was done before,
and get another alignment! When in doubt buy the long rack.
Griffiths usually stocks both long and short racks.
What is the difference between: "refurbished, reconditioned,
repaired, rebuilt, overhauled and remanufactured"?
They are all different and that is where the difference in price is.
Every company uses it's own terminology so it's best to ask "what does
your processing entail, or what am I getting for my money":
Refurbished: could mean someone found a used part in a junk
yard, quickly looked over the outside, clean it up a bit and put it in
a box.
Reconditioned: could mean someone found a used part in a junk
yard, quickly looked over the outside, clean it up a bit, spray painted
it and put it in a box.
Repaired: fixed only what was obviously wrong.
Rebuilt: fixed what was obviously wrong and maybe what could
go wrong later.
Overhauled: same as remanufactured but may or may not be near
OEM standards.
Remanufactured: a complete disassembly of the product, a thorough
cleaning and complete inspection & repair or replacement of damaged
or critical components, proper reassembly (torque & technique) of the
product, a pre test inspection, complete hydraulic test, final inspection
and proper packaging for storage and shipment..... quality is the degree
of excellence.
Customer Comments:
928 High Output Pump:
"High pressure power steering pump works a lot better than my old one, it feels great!!!
Thank you for all your supports and thanks again for making good quality products"! by Roman
944 Steering Racks:
"There is rebuilt and then there's remanufactured, and Griffiths's 944 steering rack fits the latter description. Out of the box, it could
be easily be mistaken for a brand-new unit. It is no secret the quaility of rebuilt units varies dramatically from company to company.
... when we opened the box... we truly liked what we saw --- it was a truly remanufactured piece. It far exceeded out expectations. " Excellence magazine February 2002, by Gerry Burger.
800-451-7225
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page revised 12/24/2007